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The shutter speed is too slow.
The shutter speed is larger than your lens focal length. For example, if you shoot with a 200-millimeter equivalent, the shutter speed should not be slower than 1/250 seconds, or your camera wobble will destroy your shot.
The ISO value set is too high.
In some cases, you may have to set a very high ISO value to increase the camera's sensitivity to the image to avoid hand shaking. To avoid this, you can turn on the original image preservation mode, or RAW format, when shooting, so that you can retain the best quality of the picture as much as possible.
The camera is not in the right position.
Instead of using a rear display to compose and shoot, the best thing to do is to lift the camera to your eyes and form a "triangle" by supporting the weight of the lens with your left hand. You'll have a good, stable base and then you can start shooting!
Too dependent on camera stability
Each camera has its own image stabilization system, which is useful both in the camera and in the lens, allowing you to shoot at slower shutter speeds than usual. In some cases, you can get a clear picture at a relatively slow speed.
The aperture is too big or too small.
Too small an aperture inside the lens causes light to bend through the edge of the aperture blade, thus preventing light from focusing on the sensor. Without light, the image will naturally blur. To avoid this, the aperture is slightly larger, such as increasing to F11.
The focus mode is wrong.
If you want to shoot a static subject, then your camera is usually perfectly focused using the single point above! But if your subject starts moving, your image will lose focus. Because when you press the shutter button half, the focus is locked, and it will not update the focus.
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